Life in Tonle Sap Cambodia

Assalamualaikum warahmatullahi wabarakatuh, 


This is my backpacking experience in Cambodia on 27 February 2012.

Tonle Sap the Great Lake

The largest lake in South East Asia, Tonle Sap is actually a combined lake and river in Cambodia, feeding the Mekong River. Geographically, it is unusual for the reason that it changes its flow twice a year. Historically, it witnessed the naval battles (between the Khmer and the Chams armies) and also the tragic death of thousand innocent souls attributable to the vicious and ruthless Khmer Rouge regime.

After a sweltering day spent visiting the mind-blowing Angkor Wat and the other magnificent temples, Hazem and I went back to our hotel for three hour rest, and we commenced our next relaxing boat ride to Chong Kneas, the closest of all the floating villages to Siem Reap, cruising along the muddy Tonle Sap river. The entire floating village moves with the seasonal change in water level of Tonle Sap. Interesting, right?

6.00 p.m. – Cruising along the Muddy Tonle Sap River

We departed to the jetty by the same van that brought us to Angkor Wat in the morning. It gave us the opportunity to enjoy the wonderful scenery of paddy fields and the lotus fields along the way. There was a boat waiting for us at the jetty. We had a long trip to the floating village, along a narrow channel leading to the huge lake of Tonle Sap. It was along the channel that really touched my heart. Everything that I’ve witnessed was fascinating. But somehow disturbing.

We passed some empty boats parked by the river banks. And since it was almost sunset, I saw some kids returning from school. Some of them were reading books in the boat.

Occasionally I saw some noisy kids screaming their lungs out and laughing out loud while swimming in the filthy water.

Some teenagers coming back from work, some older men fishing or adjusting their fishing nets, some women washing clothes.

It was difficult for me to comprehend how could the people be so comfortable and peaceful living in a condition like that. 


Serba kekurangan. Namun mereka bersyukur dengan apa yang ada. 

Well, that is life.

And they are happy and thankful. For the way they are.

These floating villages are just what the name signifies, furnished with houses, schools, shops and churches, even though the villages are more like floating ghettos.

I waved my hands to some of them. Few returned me with the hand gestures. Some merely smile. While others didn’t seem to pay attention to us as our boat passed by. I guess we were insignificant to them anyway.

From the narrow channel, we made it through the big lake, where the major parts of Chong Kneang were there. We passed through the village and boarded a floating restaurant,with a crocodile farm on it. I saw a young boy, perhaps at the age of 3 – 4 years old, was running around greeting the boarding tourists, with a python around his neck, and expecting people to donate USD 1 for “amusement”. Some tourists gave him some money, only to discover another three to four boys and girls of the same age, out of nowhere, with pythons on their shoulders running towards them for money. I am not sure whether the rest of the kids managed to get some money from the tourists. Because upon realisation that they brought snakes, I immediately ran away to the nearby souvenir shops and hid myself from sight.

We decided not to have dinner there since the day was getting darker. We climbed up the stairs and checked the view from the top of the floating market. The floating village was enormous, but still too little compared to the overall size of Tonle Sap Lake. From far, I can see the sun sinking into the lake, slowly. Before it gets any darker, we decided to leave.

I saw a mother rowing her boat, with three children. A tourist was offering white chocolate to them. Seeing those kids reaching out their hands for the chocolate. And the happiness on their face, really moved me.

We headed to the river bank, passing by the same scenery. But with different feelings. 


In life, there are so many things that we should be thankful for. 

Regards,

Hairi Tahir